Relic to Life line, by William Hartley
Aqaba in southern Jordan is a place where borders come together. Twenty mile to the south is Saudi Arabia. Across the gulf Egypt is a ferry ride away and via a short taxi journey, the Israeli town of Eilat.
Out at sea an Israeli warship may be seen steering a leisurely course across the gulf before back tracking. Presumably its job is to act as a radar sentry. Until September this part of the Middle East had been peaceful, before Houthi rebels in Yemen launched a missile attack on Eilat causing civilian casualties. October 7th brought a repeat. During the afternoon people in Aqaba witnessed Israeli anti aircraft missiles heading skywards. This time four drones had been launched from Yemen. One was destroyed as it flew up the Red Sea and the other three were hit over Eilat. The attack showed that nowhere in the Middle East can be entirely free from conflict and this instability must be a major factor stifling development.
Above Aqaba flies the flag of the Arab Revolt. At one time the 430 feet high flagpole was the world’s tallest and acts as a landmark at the head of the gulf. Below it is the fort taken by TE Lawrence and his Arab irregulars in 1917. Aqaba then provided a base via which the Royal Navy supplied the revolt. It was perhaps the last time that this port city was of direct military value. Today being Jordan’s only seaport, its significance is economic and the potential is considerable. But to achieve this and access to the vast markets further north requires stability and therein lies the problem. More than a century ago there once existed the means to move goods quickly and efficiently throughout the Middle East. Today borders and continuing instability combine to challenge the prospect of a return to that era.
On the 28th September 2025 a ‘memorandum of understanding’ was signed by ministers from Turkey, Syria and Jordan; the aim being to reopen the Hejaz railway. As one cynical journalist recently pointed out, there has been a blizzard of similar agreements over the years but little has actually been achieved. The remains of the railway are a monument to what was once possible and how much better things might be in the region if it was brought back to life.
Conceived by the Ottoman Empire of Turkey, the plan had been to run the railway from the Haydarpasa station in Istanbul to Mecca, though this never quite happened. Built between 1900 and 1908 the line actually began in Damascus and ended in Medina about 211 miles short of Mecca. Even so the route covered over 800 miles and was an astonishing feat of engineering, whose further development was curtailed by the First World War.
The original idea was political rather than economic: the aim being to facilitate pilgrimages to Muslim holy places in today’s Saudi Arabia and of course improve Ottoman control over the more distant provinces of its empire. With the railway operational, Damascus an ancient trading post on the Silk Road, soon became a pivotal point on the network, as its potential began to be realised. By 1914 Haifa in present day Israel had been connected to Damascus and there was also a French owned branch running eastwards from Beirut. Further south Amman was linked to Damascus; a development which revitalised what was to become the capital of Jordan. Previously it had all but been abandoned. In short, the Mediterranean and Red seas were brought together without the need for goods to travel through the Suez Canal.
Arguably the key to reviving the Hejaz is Aqaba. In 2006 the port was relocated south from the city centre to access deeper water. It is now a modern container port which is the main economic driver for Jordan and also handles trade from Egypt via the ferry link. There has been a surge in the amount of container traffic passing through the port: the first eight months of 2025 saw a 19% increase on the previous year. Aqaba has the potential to help revitalise much of the entire region.
There are or rather were two railways operating in Jordan, both of which are direct descendants of the Hejaz. The only one of these still working connects the capital to three outlying towns and is a narrow gauge railway which operates only occasionally. Until 2011 there was a connection through to Damascus but this ended with the outbreak of the Syrian civil war. In the south a non-contiguous section hasn’t fared much better. This was a mineral line used to transport phosphates to Aqaba and operations ceased in 2018. Indeed, for a traveller in Jordan the only sight of a railway may be on the way to the airport in Amman. Here the motorway goes over a bridge and below, half obscured by desert sands, a section of track can be seen.
Lawrence and his irregulars weren’t the only ones to have damaged the line. Out in the Jordanian and Saudi deserts treasure hunters searching for gold allegedly left by the retreating Turks during the Arab Revolt, has led to destruction of tracks and stations. Rails have also been pilfered for scrap and the Syrian civil war has caused damage to buildings. Some parts of the infrastructure have, however, survived rather better. Since access to concrete was limited many bridges and over passes were built from carved stone and are said to have survived unscathed. By 1920 though, most of the route had been abandoned. What remained in operation was just a fragment of the whole.
In a recent article published in the journal of the Royal United Services Institute, Dr Serhat Erkman described transition to stability in Syria as ‘slow and uneven’ and noted that there are still parts of the country controlled by militants, who didn’t participate in the recent general election. Added to the mix is the continuing Russian presence in the country. There is one bright spot. After a gap of eleven years goods traffic carried by road is once more moving south to Aqaba, hinting at what might be possible.
The starting point for any renewal of the railway is the Turkish pledge to restore 30 kilometres of missing track and infrastructure. Jordan is to explore its ability to once more run and maintain locomotives and rolling stock for a revival of the Amman-Damascus section. There has been no mention so far of links to the Mediterranean. The last train out of Haifa to Damascus ran just a few hours after the Six Day War started in 1967.
Clearly getting investors to help fund the regeneration of the Hejaz is dependant upon an improved security situation, notably in Syria. This would provide an economic lifeline via jobs in rail reconstruction. A shared future in transportation between Syria and Jordan would be soft power in action, functional not ideological.
William Hartley is an incorrigible globetrotter





















